Wednesday, August 5
our 2.versuch alone into the great wide sea with a breaking surf board. the whole has shifted to the afternoon because we were told in the camp (or have we listened to it so:)) that it is six hours after high tide at the best surf in the Kudeta. well well ... the time had come to clock 16.00. are with our things and drove to the beach mellitus in luggage. go in
times was not a problem. not to paddle out. sit outside and not look. but then ... Then came a set the Leeroy! and we erst. .. are immersed as wrong and it all clean dive through the wave-washed under the! this rarely happens ...
nevertheless we have set the wait and remained still in there. one of the guides from the camp was on the same spot do (in his spare time) and has polish up our self-confidence as he has always been shouted "this one, this one - you can do it !!!!" angepaddelt johndoe clean in the inside and (if the vote is already said - - that the art) Alright.
nice: the wave is ned broken, is GEBERSTET! a close-out without equal (= close out the wave breaks everywhere at the same time: make a noise like "KAWUMMMMM!").
beautiful - water in the ear. eye appears, have tormented me out to Maria and have counseled. The waves were just too stupid and blown. chose the variant "we take a white-water transport to the beach" decided. are so after about 30 minutes out from the water. maybe that was disappointing.
built then sand sculptures on the beach. that was funny. melli's right to laugh when she saw us sitting there. and the mega (the guide, who was also in water) gave us the evening laughed right ... well ... All beginnings are difficult.
have it we will be rewarded with sushi:)
Thursday, August 6
new day, new surfer happy. again we were advised in the camp, where should we go the best. which is currently flooded late in the morning and as we were told that in Canggu (oldman) law should be good.
have an appointment with judit (the other roommate in a bungalow) and are at noon went to Canggu.
rian and löti were with their surf groups there as well - a good sign:) And the waves have looked really nice! AND: no shore break far and wide, hach as well.
purely paddle - in the blink of nothing, we were outside. (I looove this channel!) Is equal to have a few waves angepaddelt - were not really the peak, and are therefore quickly back behind the wave down. but the practice was great!
are self-awareness with more then we over to the peak (this is the part of the wave that breaks first - there should start to surf:) also has 3x worked out great:))
because none of us 3 a clock Mithat, We have driven us to the other groups and then said rian times (after 2 h) to us that he now takes his last wave and then goes out (love how it took care of us!).
that was a great day! it will just happen. Good things take time.
are in accordance with the surf still sitting comfortably on the beach in Canggu and gone home until late. night in kuta a warung to eat and then to the camp - Fuxi, technology and Ocho go for a week on the boot from the camp: a boat-trip and make surf films. they have adopted and are then driven home by midnight.
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